The Mountain's Silhouette

Hiking and backpacking in the mountains of Scotland

A Wild Camp in Glen Gairn (Part 2)

Sunday 26th February – River Gairn wild camp to Corgarff castle
Distance: 20.8km
Time: 6 hours
Ascent: 700m
Hills: Carn Ealasaid (Corbett, 792m)
Route: Click to view

Part one of this trip can be read here.

The clear skies continued into the morning which unfortunately somewhat muted the sunrise. By the time I got up at around 8am the sky was blue but a dense fog was clinging to all the surrounding summits. In particular I could see that Ben Avon was shrouded in it above about 800m. There was a chill to the air and it would be a bit longer before the sun broke through to my camping spot so I warmed up by getting all my gear sorted and packed up. The tent fly was drenched with dew but there was no sign of ice or even frost: a very mild night for February in the Highlands.

'The Lost Coast: Lossiemouth to Burghead by sand, sea and cliffs'

Date: 11th February 2012
Distance: 16.45km
Ascent: 126m
Time: 5hrs 14mins
Hills: None whatsoever
Weather: Mild, light breeze, later drizzle turning to light rain
Route: View on OS Maps

Moray Coastal Trail

Lossiemouth harbour on a steely grey Saturday morning in February is a quiet, empty sort of place. There were only a handful of dog walkers on beach, an old gentleman wandering down the street with his newspaper, and twenty-seven eager Stockets ready to face the perils of the Moray Coastal Trail.

Hill of Wirren (The Fast Train to Edzell)

Date: 15th January 2012
Distance: 22.12km
Ascent: 708m
Time: 5hrs 59mins
Hills: West Wirren, Hill of Wirren (Graham, 678m), West Wirren
Weather: Very cold, light winds, clear skies, haze developing at low levels
Route: View on OS Maps

Sunrise

I’m not sure whether the driver was slightly masochistic or just trying to acclimatise us to the cold we would face once we jumped off at Tarfside in Glen Esk, but it was absolutely freezing on the coach that took the Stocket Hillwalking Club away from Aberdeen for a day out. Actually, looking back, “jumped off” sounds a bit too active…. I’d met up with some work-related friends at eight on Saturday evening and finally got to bed at four the next morning. I was feeling particularly bleary eyed as I stumbled off the coach into the bright winter sunshine just a few short hours later. Water would have been good at this stage but already my hydration pipe had frozen solid so it was a cup of sweet black tea that did the job of slightly reviving me.

'Book Review: Lowdown on the upland of Mar by Joe Dorward (Kindle Edition)'

Joe Dorward is passionate about that corner of the Cairngorm Mountains, largely west and north of the village of Braemar in Aberdeenshire, which is known as the upland of Mar. Beginning with camping holidays to the area as a young boy, he has spent many enjoyable days exploring the rivers and glens of this rambling area of rough moorland and heathery hills, and is gradually constructing his guide to them, a fabulous website called the the upland of Mar.

Crathie to Ballater (via some hills)

Date: 7th January 2012
Distance: 19.43km
Ascent: 562m
Time: 5hrs 57mins
Hills: Sgor an h-Iolaire, Creag nam Ban, Creag Ghiubhais
Weather: Overcast and light rain showers. Some sunshine. Very strong winds on the tops.
Route: View on OS Maps

With the weather continuing to threaten high winds and unpleasant conditions on the tops, Dave and I decided to try a low level walk making use of the service bus going out from Aberdeen to Braemar. The basic plan was to jump off at Crathie and then make our way back east along the river to Ballater, going over a number of small sub-600m bumps that lie along the south bank of the River Dhé. These hills don’t really feature on any lists (though I’m told one is a Marilyn) so we were assured a quiet day with plenty of pathless wandering.

Snow Showers and Icicles - A Meander Around Glen Tanar

Date: 2nd January 2012
Distance: 30.00km
Ascent: 920m
Time: 6hrs 8mins
Hills: Mount Keen (Munro, 939m), Gathering Cairn (790m) Weather: Cold, bright sunshine in the glen during the morning. Later high winds and snow showers. Route: View on OS Maps

With my car on the fritz and an uncertain weather forecast I decided to do a local walk to kick-start 2012. Mount Keen is the most easterly Munro and can either be accessed from the south via Glen Mark (the more popular route) or from the north via Glen Tanar (as well as more adventurous and less trodden routes coming in from either the east or west if you prefer). I’ve done both the northern and southern approaches in the past but must say that I prefer the delights of the Glen Tanar approach which also has the benefit of being slightly closer to Aberdeen and on better roads. In his Christmas special Coast to Coast from Aberdeen to Knoydart, Cameron McNeish came by way of Glen Tanar to Mount Keen and the time he spent there demonstrated the attractions of this particular glen. The estate are working to regenerate the Caledonian Forest and they maintain good tracks through the woods and upper, wilder parts of the estate as well as providing a walkers car park at the entrance.

2011 in the Scottish Hills

As 2011 draws to a close and the weather is wild and windy outside, I thought it a good opportunity to browse back through the reports and photos from my trips out in the Scottish hills over the past twelve months and put together a quick summary. A mild and wet December is now fizzling out and looking back it is hard to believe how warm and sunny the early spring was.

Loch Eriboll

Down and out on Gael Charn

Date: 13th November 2011
Distance: 20.74km
Ascent: 628m
Time: 6hrs 24mins
Hills: Gael Charn (Corbett, 821m)
Weather: Mild with light winds, later sunshine after cloudy start
Route: View on OS Maps

Outside it was dark and drizzly, Aberdeen shrouded in a clinging fog. The pavements were slick with rain and the traffic lights danced eagerly through their cycle despite the lack of an audience. The coach was thankfully warm and I got the back seat where with my iPod on I could catch up on some much needed sleep on the long crossing to Tomintoul. When I woke some time later it was light outside and the skies were looking much better. We had left the Aberdeen mist behind and bands of blue sky appeared as we rolled through the foothills of the Cairngorms, turning off the Nethy Bridge road and pulling up at the turning area near Dorback Lodge.

Ben Lawers or The Clouds Lie Below Coire nan Cat

But every silver linin' // Always seems to have a cloud // That comes my way

Date: 6th November 2011
Distance: 17.02km
Ascent: 1522m
Time: 6hrs 16mins
Hills: Beinn Ghlas (Munro, 1,103m), Ben Lawers (Munro, 1,214m), An Stuc (Munro, 1,118m)
Weather: Cloud inversion, cold, sunny, clear skies, very light wind
Route: View on OS Maps

The east coast sparkled with a heavy frost as I drove down the A90 early on Sunday morning. A thin mist filled the hollows and the sun, rising through a bank of sea fog, cast an ethereal light across the landscape. The colours were crisper and more vivid than anything you could hope to commit to film or chip. After seemingly weeks of wind and rain the utter stillness was quite breathtaking, even when travelling at 70mph.

Welcoming back Greenwich Mean Time on Scolty Hill

Drive. The city recedes in my mirrors. Head west into the low afternoon sun. Negotiate the muddy and pot-holed road and park. Laces tied, sack on, straight off into the forest. Mulchy, muddy ground under foot, blue skies above broken by white clouds racing through on a strong breeze. The …